There was heavy rain the day we ventured out to Malmaison and Chantilly (not unusual for Paris in late October), but by way of serendipity the weather turned to a light drizzle everytime we left the car.

Somehow, the gray, leaden skies added to the aura around this dramatic French Renaissance Revival “Castle of Princes,” with its long and notable histoire…built in 1560, the original “Petit Chateau” was destroyed during the French Revolution. In 1830, Henri d’Orleans, Duc d’Aumale, son of the last king of France, Louis-Philippe, inherited Chantilly from his godfather, Prince of Conde. He would go on to distinguish himself as a man of letters, military leader, politician, and an exceptional art collector. It was he who rebuilt and considerably enlarged the original footprinf of Chantilly (now referred to as the “Petit Chateau” and “Grand Chateau”) from 1875-1882. Chantilly was ultimately bequeathed to the French state in 1889 as the price for the return of the Duc from political exile. Chantilly and its significant art collection were left to the French nation in 1897 upon the Duc’s death.

Chantilly has much to commend it — a storybook Royal Hunting Estate amid an expansive artificial lake, magnificently landscaped with gardens designed by Andre’ Le Notre; its prestige as the 2nd largest repository of French and Italian Old Masters in France, (after the Louvre Museum); one of the most important libraries in France (after the National Library), in terms of rare editions and illuminated manuscripts known as the Conde Museum; and lest we not forget, the legendary Chantilly racecourse with grand Louis XV-style stables, built 1721-1735, prior to the Chateau that we see today!

As we exited Chantilly, one last look back assured me that we had made the right decision in heading off from Paris, rather than staying in a cozy cafe.’ I made a promise to myself that I would return in the spring/summer to capture, specifically, Le Notre’s brilliant garden plan. Given Chantilly’s abundant supply of water, he seized upon this element for its decorative value throughout, employing the great terrace below the Chateau’s east front as the fulcrum of his creation.

Chantilly has been a museum open to the public since 1898; I strongly encourage you to take advantage of this opportunity. It will be a memorable day! Au revoir…