For many reasons, Villa di Balbianello and its terraced gardens are arguably one of the most impressive sites on Lake Como (if not the). The breathtaking location on its own wooded peninsula jutting into the water, the topography so perfect for a passionate gardener to play out his vivid imagination, and the histoire of the original owners that goes back to the 13th century provide true testimony to this fact.

First a Franciscan monastery (the two towers are remnants of the campanili of the church), the buildings were converted into a private residence by a Cardinal, then a Visconti, then an American Lieutenant Colonel, and finally a Count, Milanese businessman and explorer Guido Monzino (as a bachelor’s pad). It is he who restored the gardens and the four buildings as a “treasure chest of memories of exploits and adventures” (ie. he was the leader of the first Italian expedition to climb Mount Everest).

From the moment your boat deposits you at the private dock

you are intrigued and beguiled by the steepness of the property

the absolute perfection of the manicured grounds

the views of the lake from varying angles (here, showing off the famed town of Bellagio)

and the horticultural wealth made possible by this sublime Mediterranean climate (far from the Mediterranean Sea). Note the pruned Magnolia tree planted at an angle of the hill!

The centerpiece of the garden is the “loggia” (feature image), with only two rooms (library and music/map room) and two balconies facing east and west, covered in  a creeping fig vine, pruned into an interlocking collage. To add an impressive horticultural note….the vine comes from just one single plant and is approximately 180 years old. To say that it takes a great amount of time to prune and maintain this creation in this state of perfection is an understatement!!

You become even more entranced as you walk the paths that take you up and down the steep hillside…with an elaborate carved parapet the one constant that seems to follow you wherever you go, accented with large urns filled with yellow pansies, serving on our visit as beacons in the fog. You see it first as you pull up to the dock, and then decorating the steps of the loggia’s balcony and a viewing spot just above the water.

While the parapet is interrupted by rocks, ledges, and plantings, these intermittent openings add an authentic feel to the overall effect of the gardens (which I had failed to realize until I was reviewing all my images, so busy was I looking at the plantings, etc.).

The opportunity to also see Count Guido Monzino’s eightenth century decorative accessories and furnishings in his private residence brought another perspective to the visit.

While they enlighten you, it is also comes with a bit of sadness, for this bon vivant only lived in his treasure of a villa for 14 years, dying in 1988. But through his generosity we are able to enjoy vicariously his exploits, adventures, romantic escapades…and his bit of paradise, perched upon a hill overlooking Lake Como. It is his endowment, through FAI, Fondo Ambiente Italiano (the National Trust of Italy), that maintains the property in such exquisite detail.

No surprise, this location and the gardens are used for many events…ie.weddings, movie locations (ie. Casino Royale) and informal photo shoots.

The perfect image for a close…

Stay tuned…more notes and pictures from this incredible trip to the Lake District of northern Italy on next week’s Journal. CIAO!!