People, Places & Spaces, Travel Notes


Dining Around in Paris: 3 of my Favorite Restaurants

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A trip to Paris is not complete without sharing dining notes and experiences. And no surprise, everyone has their faves in this city so associated with the history of cuisine and dining. Over a 10 day period in October, these were the standouts for me…as the number of images (in descending order) convey.

Le Coupe-Chou 11 Rue de Lanneau, 75005 Paris (in the heart of the Latin Quarter)

From the duck foie gras ~ to the seared Normandy scallops (with leek fondue and wasabi potatoes) ~ to the crusted poached pear in a pistachio sauce,

Le Coupe-Chou (the cut cabbage) gets top billing. But to be honest, the setting is so intriguing and sublime I almost didn’t worry about the food.

In the 5th arrondissement in what is referred to as Old Paris, this bistronomic jewel is housed in a series of 14th, 16th, and 17th century connecting buildings that guarantees an atmosphere of authenticity that even Hollywood’s best set designer could not replicate…stone walls, winding halls, up and down steps.

And a fireplace in almost every room that makes one feel both comfortable and “at home” (and to have your table this close is ideal).

As part of its singularity, Le Coupe-Chou is so off the beaten path that even our Uber driver had difficulty finding it…which should be another incentive for all you aficionados of romantic, traditional true French food. I promise, it will be well worth your effort.

Le Récamier 4 Rue Juliette Récamier, 75007 Paris, France (neighborhood of Saint-Germain-des-Prés)

When I expressed to my travel chums that I desperately needed a “souffle fix” the name Le Récamier tripped off their tongues. I did the restaurant proud by having a mushroom soufflé (with salad) for an entree and a grand Marnier soufflé for dessert…if only my stomach had been larger than my eyes, as the menu has a selection of approximately 35 souffles; perfect puffs, light as air, and intensely flavorful. Quite an undertaking on the part of chef/owner, Gerard Idoux. To name a few: burgundy snail soufflé and herbs, cheese soufflé, Henri IV soufflé and traditional mustard sauce, soufflé with rhubarb compote, Madagascar vanilla soufflé and red fruits puree, and caramel soufflé with fleur de sel.

As an incentive to lure you back, the souffle selections change seasonally…so surely you will wish to try Le Racamier on your Paris trips (plural). As a further lure, remember that Chef Idoux has an impressive resume (ie. he was awarded the Legion of Honor by President Sarkozy) which obviouly includes mastering the art of the soufflé (Le Récamier also has a beautiful terrasse, with 45 tables).

Jules Verne Avenue Gustave Eiffel 2éme, Eiffel Tower, Av. Anatole France, 75007 Paris

It’s a long way from the comfy cozy feeling of Le Coupe-Chou to the extravagant experience of dining half-way up the Eiffel Tower. But isn’t that what the AmEX tagline touts~ priceless experiences? My thinking was…if not now, when? Yes, each of the 6-7 courses was an amuse-bouche size serving, but each was exquisite in its attention to taste pairings. And the service was impeccable, the full moon adding another dimension to an already “for the books” experience!

Mmmm, can’t wait to return to Paris…

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About Bettie Bearden Pardee

Author of Private Newport and Living Newport, garden furniture designer (The Parterre Bench), national lecturer, and entertaining expert. An honoree for the second year on "The Salonniere 100 America's Best Party Hosts", she was also the host and creative producer of "The Presidential Palate: Entertaining at the White House".

10 thoughts on “Dining Around in Paris: 3 of my Favorite Restaurants

  1. Le Coupe Chou looked & sounded sublime! As a dessert first person, the poached pear & dessert souffles – are there words?? Thank you Bettie!

  2. Be still my HEART! Move over Julia and Jacques…
    I just loved your photos and descriptions of the courses in each restaurant; I could almost taste them and envision dining in those exquisite spaces. The chefs of the world seem to be inspired by gardens as they create each beautiful course.

  3. These recommendations to such unique Parisian dinner destinations show Paris has come a long way in the recent years. The interior shots as well as the food pics are veery enticing! because we know what good taste you have, Bettie so thank you!

  4. How does Le Récamier compare to Le Soufflé on the right bank?

    Your descriptions of each venue are enough for one to book a flight right now.

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