With its striking appearance and sophisticated charm, Place des Vosges is well worth a visit on your next trip to Paris. What was once a former marshland on the eastern edge of Paris is now esteemed as one of the first examples of royal city planning in Europe (dating back to 1605).
This historic heart of the Marais neighborhood is a formal, perfectly symmetrical square with singular architecture of the Louis XII-style (1601-1643), beautifully maintained and rich in its details~the regularity of the red brick facade with strips of stone quoins, the tall, narrow windows, square stone pilasters, and gently sloping slate roofs.
The grassy center of the square is the impressiviely massive bronze statue of King Louis XIII, son of Henry IV, who is responsible for the building of Place des Vosges. Four gravel paths lead diagonally away from this point, with 4 sets of flowerbeds each with its own elegant fountain. The scene is completed with three rows of clipped lime trees framing the square’s perimeters.
From the intriguing custom street lamps to the beds’ scalloped metal edging to the raked pebble paths, Place des Vosges is maintained as a truly peaceful sanctuary and gathering place.
Though Kings and Queens never lived here, the French aristocracy resided in many of the dwellings. The term “hôtel particulier” was coined to describe a type of mansion popular with aristocrats of this era who wished the opulence of a chateau in an urban setting, as Place des Vosges well illustrates. In one corner is Hôtel de Sully; walk through the arch to partake of the garden and Orangerie; on another block, Victor Hugo’s house museum is open to visitors. And now, within the vaulted arcades of the ground floor of each house block, are to be found special shops, eateries, art galleries, and boutique lodging.
Le Pavillon de la Reine, nestled into its own private courtyard, is not just for overnights but also for lunch, dinner, and tea.
And Carette, touted to be the best café for hot chocolate in Paris. Forget your waistline and splurge, it’s well worth it with the traditional accompaniment~a heaped serving of Chantilly Cream (recipe for your pleasure).
When you venture beyond the square, walk south to Rue Saint Antone (the continuation of the Rue de Rivoli) to discover the location of the original Bastille, the site on which the Opera Bastille was built.
For me there is never a question as to whether I will venture forth to Place des Vosges, the question is only when. For it holds such a fascination, with its histoire that goes back to the original roots of what was to become Paris…the oldest architecture (early 17th century), stunning in its elegant simplicity jostling with the trendiest boutiques, cafe’s, and bars. In the late 18th century the aristocracy may have moved on to Faubourg Saint-Germain, but two+ centuries later Place Royale (as it was originally called) once again attracted a lively group of urbanites.
Closing note, to consider…part of the fascination of this jewel, and the extraordinary fact, is that the Place des Vosges, has remained intact since its construction in 1605. No “urban renewal” here. Viva La France!
What a wonderful way to start the day with a trip to Paris! Wonderful photos and information. Thank you for posting.
As Audrey Hepburn has amously said…”Paris is always a good idea…” xB
What a visual pleasure you share…and the itinerary is simply the BEST!! Enjoyed with my second cuppa joe!! franki
A cuppa joe?? Not hot chocolate with Chantilly Cream?? xB
Love the Marais. I remember one night that my French ex-husband and I walked through it at midnight. It was charming.The chaud chocolat looks marvelous, but I didn’t see the recipe you mentioned.
Oh Cynthia, you must see that! Click on “Chantilly Cream” and it will take you to it(it’s actually not a recipe but…), along with some fun tales. xB
LOVELY LADY,
ONCE AGAIN, YOUR PARIS ‘OFFERINGS’ … REKINDLE SOME OF MY MOST TREASURED MEMORIES OF MY YOUTH (MID 1970’s). THOUGH MY APT. WAS IN THE 16TH, PLACE DES VOGES HOLDS ITS OWN – GOLDEN MOMENTS.
MY LAST (PARIS EXAMPLE) WAS: ON A WARM JUNE AFTERNOON, AN UNUSUALLY WARM DAY FOR PARIS (UPPER 80’s), I ALONG WITH NUMEROUS OTHERS, FOUND THE SETTING OF THE ‘PLACE’S WELL CARED FOR LAWNS, THE PERFECT SPOT FOR A BRIEF … ‘DANCE WITH THE SUN’.
AS USUAL – MERCI FOR HELPING ME ‘DUST OFF’ THOSE GOLDEN MEMORIES.
TOM
THank you, Tom, may I always inspire you to “dust off those golden memories.” xB
That wonderful square used to have the most amazing reprint shop called HARDIN DE FLORE .They reprinted perfect copies on perfect C18 paper of George le Rouge prints and also historic maps and globes .abd other portfolios are of Parks and Gardens
Luckily ,I got most of their offerings as it was 1 man’s hobby and I am sure that it no longer exists
Your photos are extraordinary
Hello dear Ellen! Such fun ti be in touch…and with such a fun tale; knowing Paris, he could possibly still be there!
But in the meantime, love those memories of those long ago days. xB
Who lives in the Place des Vosges now? Is it all apartments or are there still hotels particuliers?
Gladys Thomas
The term hotel particulier is actually the name for a type of mansion popular with aristocrats of the 17th and 18th century who wished the opulence of a country chateau in an urban setting.
If you Google this question you will find lots of listings for apartments/homes in this set of bulidings. xB
Where’s that recipe for whipped cream? As my Great Aunt Ruth used to say, “I could eat whipped cream on sawdust!” Place de Voges is one of my favorite long ago memories of Paris. Every time I see an exquisite, thoughtfully planned and executed square in a town or city, I am reminded of that beautiful place. That’s the best of “C’est la vie!” As are your lovely photos.
Hello dear Tall R, how I wished that you could have been with me! The recipe (and tales to go with it) pop up when you click on “Chantilly Cream” in the text.
Let’s chat soon. xxB