Living in Newport, with its many exceptional homes, gate houses, stables and carriage houses, complemented by grand specimen trees on manicured landscapes, gives one the sense of existing in another place in time – and then the much-anticipated Coaching Weekend, highlight of the Newport social calendar, comes along every three years to keep that magical impression alive.

As though scripted by Julian Fellowes, Coaching returns tomorrow just as the third season of his “The Gilded Age” TV series is airing. An English tradition, Coaching was introduced to America in the1880s by Alfred Gwynne Vanderbilt. It’s first venue was Newport and 135 years later this spectacle still plays out gloriously around our island. As spectacular as the setting, the culture that distinguishes this Newport event is unlike the few others held in the United States. “We don’t parade, we visit,” explains Mr. Kenneth M. P. Lindh, (Co-Chair of a Weekend of Coaching along with Mr. and Mrs. David J. Little), a subtle distinction that differentiates promenading just for show and driving to specific destinations for social gatherings. “It’s all about entertaining and being entertained, in the true tradition of Newport. Private venues around the entire island punctuate each day’s eight- mile drive. The hospitality takes many forms from Ocean Drive waterfront landscapes (Feature image) to Bellevue Avenue estates

to a sylvan farm up-island along the Sakonnet River to champagne as the sun sets at The Ledges (which enjoys cameo appearances in the “The Gilded Age” series).

Preparations for Coaching are worthy of a Masterpiece Theater presentation, a study in elegant details. The handsome antique coaches are in impeccable condition, the horses (referred to as “four-in-hand”) are matched pairs, the Whips (owners and drivers) are always in appropriate attire, including top hat, and the liveried footmen sport colorful costume.

Like any presentation, what goes on behind the scenes in the homes of many Newporters is every bit as well considered. Hosts and guests alike find themselves faced with myriad details – choices for attire, invitations and coach seating, not to mention party schedules and juggling houseguests (additionally, lodging must be determined for the 60+ horses). One of the evening events was next door to Parterre, at Rosecliff, where the coaches delivered their guests to the back lawn as a pink sky shown down upon the water and cocktails were enjoyed on the sweeping front lawn.

It is these evening events that have the WOW factor….a black tie dinner dance in a private home…

Saturday evening at The Breakers.

Coaching Weekend is indeed three days of celebrating – a tradition, a sport, a social pastime. And of course, hats are de riguer. One set off a guessing game as to whose pink creation it was that ended up on the cover of my second book, Living Newport, Houses, People, Style (to this day, we still don’t know).

Feature photo credit: Kenneth Lindh