Travel Notes


Postcards from the Magnificent Lake District of Northern Italy

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How many of us have fallen in love with a place or part of the world and promised ourselves we would return “soon.” Such is my love affair with the Italian Lakes of Northern Italy. I may have stated that I would revisit those magical moments at Villa d’Este on Lake Como but I could not have guessed how many years would elapse.

That changed this year! From April 27th – May 6th, I embraced the idyllic Lakes Como, Maggiore, Garda, and Lagano, weaving between Northern Italy and Switzerland by car, boat, and van. Raindrops changed places with blue skies and puffy cumulus clouds almost hourly, providing a much more compelling set of images for these “postcards.” Each of these sights will always immediately prompt a memory of this more than special trip!

It is a garden fact that cloudy days and a bit of rain make shades of green pop, thereby enlivening a spring garden whose formal designs are shown off to their best.

From hillocks of multicolored rhododendrons to diverse cultivars of camellias and magnolias, and of course, the tropicals, the Mediterranean climate that favors the Italian lakes provides a horticultural treat at this time of the year.

Add to this the “frosting on the cake”…the Alps showing off an abundance of snow very unusual for late spring.

Visiting private villas, and enjoying seated formal luncheons hosted by their owners, added a note of personal insights and first hand experience with Italian hospitality. One Signora, a music impresario and collector of keyboard instruments, provided a primo experience for this guest…a selection of classical compositions (ie. Beethoven, Brahms, Mozart, etc.) played on the specific pianos or harpsichords of the period of the composer.

Colorful notes peppered our trip, whether it was the zany chaises and umbrellas at the lakeside cafe’ at the Grand Hotel Tremezzo

or the terrace restaurant’s whimsical menu cover at Villa d’Este’.

or a notable waterside villa (awaiting an oligarch?).

And always, the picture-perfect small towns, with buildings and villas alike painted in the most scrumptious pastel shades.

What do I wish that I could make a place for at Parterre? The over-the-moon terrazzo floor designs, in almost every villa, but especially the ones at the Villa Borromeo, on Isola Bella, in Lake Maggiore.

Our last weekend was spent in the small town of Marcote, delightful for its rustic chic relais Castello Di Marcote, on a hillside overlooking Switzerland’s Lake Lugano…and the requisite church, its night approach made all the more special with a full moon. With only 12 rooms, intimacy proved very much a part of its charm…as did the so very Italian designed dining area (don’t you love the heart shape of the wicker chairs?). Do add Castello to your boutique hotel list!

As always, my first thought after such an informative and inspiriting trip is to share my favorite “postcrads” with you! Some are so iconically Italian that you will want to linger over them… as do I.

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About Bettie Bearden Pardee

Author of Private Newport and Living Newport, garden furniture designer (The Parterre Bench), national lecturer, and entertaining expert. An honoree for the second year on "The Salonniere 100 America's Best Party Hosts", she was also the host and creative producer of "The Presidential Palate: Entertaining at the White House".

29 thoughts on “Postcards from the Magnificent Lake District of Northern Italy

  1. What a lovely way to wake up to see your beautiful photos of Italy. Looks like a perfect trip. Was it a group tour or a private visit? If through a group please share the information for those who may wish to experience Italy in such a special way.

    1. Happy to pass along the tour name…Ciceroni Travel, an English firm, which I first learned about in Gardens Illustrated mag.
      The divine gentleman who led the tour, James Hill, is starting his own travel outfit, also (under his name). B

  2. Bette,
    I too was in Lake Como in March! It was my second time there and we stayed at the Villa D’Este. My favorite lake was Lake Garda!!! What a town!!!

    1. Aaaah Ruth, what a wonderful coincidence…and a special treat to stay at “the Villa.” There is something about that hotel that feels like no other…xB

  3. What a wonderful and transporting holiday, I just love the thought of the musical concert you attended. You always provide the most interesting and lovely content. It is a beautiful way to start my wet, rainy day.

    1. Grazie, dear Beth, that particular concert was unlike any I have ever attended or even heard about! What a treat!!! xB

  4. So very beautiful! Your skill behind the lens is inspiring through all the changes of light on your trip!

    1. Grazie, that’s a lovely turn of phrase that well captures the rain. fog, wind and other conditions that made the capture of each image that much more meaningful!! xB

  5. I have been to every area of Italy except the Lake region. It has always been on my bucket list but now you have moved it to the top of that list, Bettie! These are spectacular images! Thank you!

    1. So happy to provide the nudge! No coincidence, Italy calls you to the Lake region! xB

  6. We stayed at the Villa d’Este about 25 years ago and it is forever etched in my mind and heart. I can still see the lovely hillside from my suite open windows. The area has such beauty and the centuries old towns nearby provide many photo opportunities. Belliago was a favorite! Thanks for taking me back to one of our favorite trips abroad.

    1. So glad to hear otheres are still in the grasp of that magical hotel and its surroundings. I’d forgotten how enchanting Italy is…here’s to memories! xB

  7. Dear Bettie, Somewhere in one of my scrapbooks, I have photos from my first stay at the historic Villa d’Este, where we swam and sunbathed off of the anchored gondola in Lake Como. Thank you for your photos, and a wonderful reminder of an Italian summer, well spent. Bonny

    1. Oh Bonny, where would we be without our memories…wish I could find my pics from that first Villa d’Este trip…xB

  8. Personal
    Dear Bettie, While I traveled throughout Italy, my fiancé Bill had a remarkable experience as one of the first USNA Mid’n. to spend his summer cruise sailing aboard the Italian Naval Academy’s tall ship named the Amerigo Vespucci from
    Gaeta Italy to Dublin Ireland. Bonny

  9. OHHHH…Just what I needed right now. .Bettie’s scrumptiously delicious eye candy postcards
    from Italy !! Please “Go Away” again and bring us more of your curated treasures…

  10. I love how you began saying it is a love affair. A perfect description of this magical place.

    1. I’m afraid to say how long ago it was that I was smitten with Lake Como…xB

  11. LOVELY LADY,
    THOUGH IT’S BEEN SAID COUNTLESS TIMES (BY A HOST OF OTHERS) …
    BLESS YOU FOR SHARING YOUR GIFTED VISION.
    A THOUGHT –
    IN THESE TIMES, THE USE OF THE TERM, ‘OLIGARCH’- SEEMS TO USUALLY IMPLY AN INDIVIDUAL OF ‘QUESTIONABLE’ CHARACTER.
    HOWEVER, IF IT WEREN’T FOR SUCH ‘INDIVIDUALS’ – BOTH GARDENS AND RESIDENCES (SHOWN) WOULD HAVE REMAINED – MERE … ‘DREAMS’.
    LUCKILY TODAY, WE LIVE IN A WORLD WITH … ‘THE REMAINS OF THE DAY’ …
    OF SUCH FROMER … ‘DREAMS COME TRUE’.

    FONDLY, LONG IN THE TOOTH,

    TOM GARDNER

  12. Your photos would be beautiful postcards…that Agave is a sculpture in it’s on right. Thanks for sharing the postcards…

  13. LOVELY LADY,
    AH YES! I OFTEN DO GO OFF TOPIC (PREVIOUS NOTE) – PLEASE FORGIVE!
    THE SHEER BEAUTY OF THE CHOSEN ‘LOCALS’ – JOINED BY THE SUPERD SELECTION OF MAN MADE CREATIONS, MAKES ONE WONDER -WHY CAN’T ‘BEAUTY’ BE A PART OF EVERY HUMAN?
    BUT THEN … THERE’S – U!
    MERCI BUCKETS!
    FONDLY,
    TOM

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